Maserati 4200 / GranSport: DIY Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI) / archived / read-only

 
  • I. DIY Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI)
    • This do-it-yourself PPI List does not substitute for having a qualified Maserati mechanic perform a PPI. But those often run a few hundred dollars. But performing this comparatively more cursory inspection can serve as a sanity check to catch the more apparent problems before taking it to a mechanic.
    • Material used with permission from user "John in DC" (maseratilife.com@itsystems.net) on maseratilife.com. Reorganized into categories. Link to original: http://www.maseratilife.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2875
    • General Information
      • This PPI list is intended for a potential buyer or seller to perform. For any car, it's recommended to have a reputable mechanic perform a PPI as well; in this case, a Maserati mechanic. The mechanic should have SD2 / SD3 diagnostic computer to check clutch wear, among other things.
      • Contact dealer with the VIN number to attempt to get service records on the car.
      • Use Autocheck or CarFax to check car history (be careful--some information may be incorrect).
    • Service Recalls, Bulletins, Campaigns
      • Check service records to see if campaigns and recall work performed. See "Repair & Maintenance / Service Campaigns" and "Repair & Maintenance / Maintenance, Recall, and Tech Support Bulletins from edmunds.com" above for a list.
    • Engine
      • Surging at idle, rough idle--leaking manifold gaskets, faulty fuel pressure reg., leak in air cleaner assembly, air temp sensor, etc.
      • Gasoline smell from engine compartment--check for leaking fuel lines, leaking injectors.
      • Check in trunk for gasoline smell, which may indicate a leaking fuel tank gasket.
      • Check engine oil--see if it is at least somewhat clean and proper level.
      • If high mileage, have pressure and leak down tests performed to assure valves and piston rings are sealing correctly.
      • Check engine light illuminated? If so, have the dealer provide you with a readout of engine fault codes.
    • DriveLine
      • All Models
        • The clutch is a high cost item to replace and has a relatively short life (compared to most cars). Have a dealer or independent check the condition / life remaining in the clutch surface and compare this against service records. This should become part of price negotiations if you decide to buy the car.
          • A note on the clutch wear reading: The SD2/ SD3 readout of clutch wear is only within 10% [source: http://maseratilife.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5344&postcount=31] , and can be reset to zero wear in the computer (sometimes done if the clutch is adjusted between clutch changes). So take the reading with a grain of salt. If you feel the clutch is slipping, it's time for a new clutch.
          • Jeff at Formula dynamics does not give much creedence to the clutch wear reading, presumably because it's both imprecise and can also be easily reset. This is one reason among many why service records are important; to see If a clutch with a low wear reading has been merely adjusted, or replaced.
          • [Note that the clutches on GTs (6 speed manuals) last longer and are less expensive to replace. Also, Cambiocorsas especially benefit from Formula Dynamic's DBW module, which quicken shift times and can extend clutch life. --editor]
      • Early Model Coupes:
        • For early model year Coupes, determine whether it has single tang or dual tang clutch. Some singles were upgraded to duals by the dealer. Check service records to confirm.
      • GT
        • Check smooth operation of 2nd gear. But note that some owners have reported that 1-2 shifts and 3-2 shifts are difficult when the transmission is cold, so allow the car to warm up before passing judgment.
        • Ensure the transmission shifts smoothly up *and* down through the gears. Look for any "binding" - - especially on downshifts.
      • CC & GS
        • Has the F1 pump been changed? When? Is it the newer Alfa Romeo model? Check service records to confirm.
        • When was the last time the F1 transmission pump relay was replaced? Be sure to replace it yearly as cheap insurance against F1 pump failure modes.
        • While in Neutral, the "N" flash two times then stops flashing. Car doesn't downshift by itself as you slow down as it normally should.
          • Solution: Brake switch might be bad. This will cause the "N" to flash and the no downshifting while slowing down if your MSP(yellow) light comes on and or your ABS light then its definitely your brake switch sensor as this indicates that there is no brake input to the TCU. For less than $40.00 you can swap the brake switch out w/ a new one.
    • Suspension/Wheels
      • Wobble in steering when accelerating or decelerating--can be unbalanced tires, warped rotors, bent wheels, loose suspension parts.
      • During test drive, jam on the brakes fast and hard. Feel for any wobble in the steering wheel which could be indicative of worn bushings and/or warped brake rotors.
      • Check brake pads on all four corners. Confirm there is ample pad surface left.
      • Measure rotor thickness and confirm that there is ample material left. (Need some specs to be supplied here)
      • Check tire wear--gives a great indication of front suspension problems (assumes SOME tire wear).
      • If the car has been lowered (easier on Skyhook cars), check to confirm that a proper alignment was performed afterwards. Obtain alignment specs if possible.
      • Check for visible signs of wheel damage. Possible out-of-round conditions due to hitting pot holes or similar causes of damage.
      • Rear suspension bushes require renewal every 4-5 years (dealers want to replace entire lower suspension arms!)
      • Check if the wheel nuts are rusting.
    • Exterior
      • Paint condition.
        • Check for rock chips, door dings, and scrapes on the front chin/spoiler area.
        • Check for overspray of paint on any gaskets or rubber contact points in hood or trunk area (will show if has been re-painted)
        • Rock chips on front of car--two edged sword. Ugly and expensive to repair but actually indicates more highway mileage, which in my book is a GOOD thing mechanically.
        • On the coupe, check the paint around the bumper and below the rear lights very carefully. (A cheap fix is to touch up the damaged area whereas the correct repair is to actually repaint the entire back half of the car/front windshield back, excluding doors. )
      • Rust
        • Be sure to check under car and look at exhaust system from engine all the way back to tail-pipes for rust-contact on body, etc.
        • Check for even the tiniest point of rust ANYWHERE on the car and under the car. You should not find any rust on the body ANYWHERE. However, the exhaust is prone to rusting. Normal.
      • Check to see if the gas cap opens properly. Some owners reported sticky gas caps.
      • Check rubber window gaskets.
    • Interior/Trunk
      • With windows down, find a stretch of bumpy road and confirm that there are no rattling noises coming from the door panel area (possible window retractor problem).
      • Check for condition of all leather, leather trim, headliner, and carpet.
      • Chrome flaking off air vent surrounds on dashboard
      • Check for headliner rattle, which seems to come from the leather headliner near both rear corners. Usually indicates broken plastic headliner mounting clips.
      • Confirm that all functions on cruise control stalk are fully functional (esp the rotating bit).
      • Multifunction seat working properly, including memory settings, automatic fore/aft movement, and such.
        • Problem: Driver seat doesn't move forward automatically when you recline it. It may attempt to move or moves only a tad and then starts going back. However, if you move the seat manually, it moves fine.
          • Solution: You can simply fix it by manually moving the seat all the way forward to the front stop and all the way back again to the rear stop. This forces the seat software to 're-learn' where the forward-most and back-most positions are. If the self-learn does not work, disconnect the battery for a few minutes and this will reset the seat ECU.
      • In the radio/CD test, be sure to test AM radio reception and the proper function of the CD changer (advance forward/backward between songs and between CDs)
      • Be sure to check that you can open both doors from inside of the car. This will confirm that the door handle cable mechanisms are working properly.
      • Confirm proper (read: non-sticky) operation of emergency brake, ie it engages fully with approximately three "clicks" when you pull it. Adjustment easily performed using instructions from Panos.
      • Look for leaks in the trunk in the bottom of the well - pick up the spare tire if it has one.
    • Electrical
      • Confirm window "dip" when opening door. Could indicate sensor issue or that window needs to be recalibrated.
      • Operate windows, steering wheel, and seat positions--especially seat base up and down travel. Right side mirror should tilt down when reverse is selected.
      • Check radio and CD player (bring some CD's to confirm proper operation).
      • If car has navigation, confirm that latest Nav disks are supplied with the car.
      • Check operation of all lights. Headlights, turn signals, brake lights, driving lights, reverse lights, interior lights.
      • Check air conditioning and heating. Cycle through all controlls to confirm proper operation.
    • Spyder
      • Test the normal top operation and condition (fading, bird cr*p stains) and wind leaks around the seals.
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